France has begun enforcing levies on cheap clothing from e-commerce platforms like Shein and Temu, with fees potentially reaching nearly €20 per item by 2030 under new regulations targeting ultra-fast fashion.
France has introduced a tax on fast fashion garments sold through major e-commerce platforms, marking a significant regulatory shift in the country's approach to controlling low-cost apparel imports. The fee structure, which took effect this week, was established following legislation passed in June aimed at regulating companies such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress that specialise in high-volume, low-cost clothing sales. According to French officials, the measure addresses the environmental and economic damage caused by rapid fashion cycles.
The fee system operates on a tiered scale based on product type and how items score against criteria including market volume and repair costs relative to purchase price. Starting in 2026, charges will range from €0.50 for undergarments to €12 for jackets, potentially escalating to €19.50 per item by 2030, capped at 50 percent of the product's pre-tax price. Notably, the regulations exclude traditional fast fashion retailers like H&M and Zara, a distinction that has drawn criticism regarding the measure's scope and fairness.
China's commerce ministry has contested the approach, characterising the French law as discriminatory and potentially violating World Trade Organization principles. Meanwhile, the affected platforms have responded differently to the regulation. Shein has warned that the fees will negatively impact French consumer purchasing power during an economic downturn, while Temu argued it operates as a marketplace rather than a manufacturer and therefore should not be classified as ultra-fast fashion. The BBC has requested formal comments from all three companies mentioned.